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Saturday, June 25, 2011

Arrival in Ghana, June 24th

My flight seemed to be the only one arriving at 4:30am. I disembarked and waited in the short line of "other nationals" entering Ghana. I was impressed by the little green box where I was told to place my fingers while it scanned my fingerprints! The woman explained that I had 2 months, even though my visa said 90 days, and I am scheduled to leave in 2 months and 2 days...she told me to figure it out for myself when I asked.

I got my bags, thankfully, having experienced that wave of horror at the idea of my bags being lost since it took a long time for mine to come out. I loaded them onto the rolling carts, (that are free in every country but the USA) and headed out. I opened one bag for a security guard, he seemed bored, and waved me through. I was struck by a wall of humidity as I left the building, and was relieved to see a sign with my name written in pink highlighter. A middle aged man with deep dark skin smiled when I pointed at the sign and said, "thats me!" He introduced himself as Mr. Dadie and helped me to push my cart across the street into the parking lot. A group of men had surrounded us and one welcomed me, "Akwabba". I shook my hand and told me how to say "thank you" when I asked. I was glad to feel welcome and learn a bit of the language.

Several men were helping Mr. Dadie load the bags into a car. The one I was talking to asked for some money to give them as a tip. I explained that I had no local currency and he said no problem I could give dollars, pounds, anything. I fell for it. I got out my wallet and pulled out a $1, concerned that might not be enough, especially for the group, I added a $5. The man took these bills and said, "no there are so many, we will share, please give more". I looked at him suspiciously and he explained "I am coming with you, trust me, give some more please". I got out a $10. He said "$10 for this man he works very hard" and I hesitated. "Just a $20 madam and we will share". Stupidly, thoughtlessly, confused, I got out a $20. I thought he was going to give me back the other bills and that I would Only give them $20. But the second that bill touched his hand he turned away. "Wait, I gave you way too much money give it back! give me the 10!' He shoved a bill into my hand and by the time I realized it was the $1 he was surrounded by a group of men and walking away. Mr. Dadie then appeared and asked what happened because I was just staring after them feeling idiotic and angry. I checked that I had my computer and wallet still on my person and got in the car. I was so livid with myself. 'what was I thinking?! I can't believe I just let myself be scammed like that'. Mr. Dadie apologized and said he didn't realize the guy was asking me for money, that I should have called him. I don't know where he was during the interaction though and it had all happened so fast. I really had thought that other man was part of the NGO I was going to. 'Oh well, it was just money, and about as much as I would spend on dinner at home and probably worth a lot more to him'. I was so frustrated with myself though, going over and over it in my head I couldn't understand why I had been so naive, I practically gave my money away! I tried consoling myself over and over by the reassurance that the man probably had children and this would support them, maybe pay for their school, but it still tainted my drive from the airport.


We drove for about half an hour to Martinas house, Mr. Dadie didn't speak much English but he pointed out a few buildings. I got bitten by some flying bug I hadn't seen before and had a nice raised bump that itched incredibly. It reminded me of other developing countries I had been to, in that the side of the street had make shift buildings and people up at dawn already working. Many people carried goods on their heads and some women wore beautiful fabric in bright yellows, greens and blues. Small cooking fires were being stoked, vegetables and meats laid out on top. Signs advertising mobile phone services broke the landscape. Cars drove in an organized chaos, coming within inches of each other but somehow not colliding. Vans loaded with people careened through the roads. I tried buckling my seatbelt but it did not click into the holder. I held it across my body absent mindedly before I realized what I was doing and that it really wouldn't help me out.
Here are some photos from around the city.






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