Accra Tourism

 Independence Circle

 Peace, my colleague, very sweet Ghanian woman who recently started working with Futures For Kids, Martina's aunt from Germany, very sprightly 74 year old, and myself, at the mausoleum of Kwame Nkrumah

 A beautiful peacock we saw, they are stunning creatures but were not blessed with the gift of song...they sort of honk in an unpleasant way lol

The current president of Ghana John Atta Mills

photos

women carry so much on their heads it is amazing, im thinking of practicing I think it will be good for my posture :-)

 the traditional dress the Kaba and Slit

 I love how they carry their babies snug on their back, so important to develop that bond between mother and baby, and it allows the mother to have her hands free :-)

there are tons of salesmen with kiosks set up selling all types of goods

Beach house for a day

We went to a friend of Martinas, Karine, also on the board for futures for kids who I havent met yet, to their beautiful poolside/beachside house originally built by a French couple. A group of families came, Alison another FFK member and her family who are British, Adriana and a friend who are Italian, and Susanna and her daughter who are also Italian. I feel a bit confused about why I have been socializing so much with Europeans and not other Ghanians. I also went to a BBQ at the house of some Belgian engineers. Nevertheless the house was gorgeous the company was good and I enjoyed myself a lot. It was interesting discussing various topics such as politics, child rearing in a media saturated culture, living abroad vs going home or when ones home becomes going abroad. Also interesting to realize that I no longer fall into the Kids day at the pool-playing around with toys in the water and running around, but instead passed the time with the adults-chatting and laughing over a glass of wine...

 Martina my gracious host and founder of Futures For Kids and her daughter Kristen :-)

I am continually surprised at people's impression of the USA and feel like a bit of a negative nancy when I keep explaining that: our school system is funded illogically and unfairly and hence there are many students who are failed academically, that our political system is so corrupt and that corporations essentially rule our country based on greed, that our health care system is a disaster and that many people do not have access to it and that the pharmaceutical companies and HMO run it based on greed and the bottom line...The Europeans were more aware of this stuff than the Ghanians but the specifics were still news to them...

A day of rest at the house

I spent a day just resting in Martina's house while she was out with the kids. I wasn't alone however since the guard, Jerome was there and a bunch of men came to fix the water purifier. Its odd to get used to the relations between the classes in a developing/third world country. I always explain it as "either you are a maid or you have a maid". At first I feel really awkward and almost ashamed when seeing the house help cooking and cleaning, but then you realize that it is a great job for them to have and without it they might not have work. I read a good example about the issue in a book set in India. The main character finds out that men have to carry huge buckets of water up to the roof of a 5 story hotel so that people can shower. He starts taking super short showers to reduce their workload. But then a local man explains that it is an honor for them to get to use their strength to provide for their families. If he always took short showers there would be less work for them to do and less money earned. Its tricky not to sound condescending but its helped me come to terms with it.
It is a beautiful house, theres something so liberating about a house with no real windows. All the windows have screen in them and some slide closed but most are just open. The garden and trees around the home are brilliant green and so luscious it feels like an oasis within a jungle. The humid tropical air circulates through the house and when that deeper breeze comes through you can feel the storm coming.

I ate a nice lunch of yams (one of the main foods here) this stew made of a dark leaf similar to spinach, and a spicy sauce based in tomatoes (which have to be soaked in sanitizing salt before using). Its quite tasty especially warmed up and the yams cut into pieces so they soak up the flavor. Its a deceptively filling dish because once you drink water it feels as if the yams expand in your stomach and suddenly you are stuffed. At home I usually eat several small meals throughout the day but here it is 2 large meals (breakfast is usually just tea maybe toast) so I'll have to adjust. I almost never eat too much on my own schedule but I'll have to get used to feeling "So Full" or risk being hungry all the time.

It was a relaxing day of napping and enjoying the high speed internet. Im' not sure what level of internet access I'll have once I reach the north. I was supposed to use a small usb device known as a Dongle which is supposed to provide internet service anywhere, but it took 30 minutes to find gmail and i couldn't open any folders. I have patience for slow internet but that is excessive. Its amazing how lonely it is to be cut off from any connection to others. In this day and age when I am used to checking my Iphone multiple times an hour it will be a shock to be technologically stranded. I did find a book I have been meaning to re-read so I have enjoyed getting back to the experience of a real book and no screens.
I quite enjoyed this sign on a cabinet in the house, it inspires activism.

crash course in Ghana

Here is a map of Ghana, I am currently in Accra, the largest city, in the South right by the coast. I will be spending most of the summer in the Northern region, based in Tamale and traveling around to villages. It is the only region which extends from the East to West sides of the country. It is very different culturally than the rest of Ghana because it is Muslim. It is not extremist Muslim as in other Islamic countries, but does have cultural similarities to Northern Africa. 

Martina gave me some valuable information about Ghana upon my arrival; lets see what I remember.

1) Use the right hand for everything interactive, giving, receiving, even gesticulating. Using the left hand is considered offensive.

2) dont eat anything you didn't make yourself or see it being made; avoid: first and foremost: WATER. Drink only bottled water (sealed) or bagged water (with a company logo on it) 

vegetables, fruit thats not peeled, the national dish FuFu (because it is touched after it is cooked and sometimes the dough is softened with water)

Preferably eat anything: you made yourself, anything unpeeled or cooked should be soaked in Milton salt first for 30 minutes to sanitize it. Preferably anything HOT, straight out of the fire or the pot. Always ask for a freshly made batch instead of one that has been sitting around.

Fortunately, being vegetarian has limited my exposure to a lot of risky food while traveling abroad but, since getting sick is basically inevitable:

 It is customarily required if someone is eating to Offer you to join them, but it is may be just a formality, politely decline food made in the villages unless it was just cooked and low risk.

3)stock up on various antibiotics which can be bought over the counter here, seeing a doctor is not easy or reliable so best to self diagnose and medicate. I brought everything from a local drugstore to combat usual illnesses...hopefully I will not get too sick.

4)Carry toilet paper and hand sanitizer at all times.

5) Ghanian men respect other men, violence against women is minimal and rare but advances will be made unless you convince them that you are "property" of another man aka a husband, who they respect and will stop bothering you. 

6) when asking people for directions be very clear and specific, ignore polite jargon such as "could you possibly assist me to find" and just say "bank, where is it?", many people do not understand much English, especially the American accent. Should I speak with a British accent? could be fun ;-)

7) Walk as if you know where you are going, looking lost or scared makes you a target for thieves, pickpocketing is common. I will wear my money belt and purposefully walk in circles if need be lol

Arrival in Ghana, June 24th

My flight seemed to be the only one arriving at 4:30am. I disembarked and waited in the short line of "other nationals" entering Ghana. I was impressed by the little green box where I was told to place my fingers while it scanned my fingerprints! The woman explained that I had 2 months, even though my visa said 90 days, and I am scheduled to leave in 2 months and 2 days...she told me to figure it out for myself when I asked.

I got my bags, thankfully, having experienced that wave of horror at the idea of my bags being lost since it took a long time for mine to come out. I loaded them onto the rolling carts, (that are free in every country but the USA) and headed out. I opened one bag for a security guard, he seemed bored, and waved me through. I was struck by a wall of humidity as I left the building, and was relieved to see a sign with my name written in pink highlighter. A middle aged man with deep dark skin smiled when I pointed at the sign and said, "thats me!" He introduced himself as Mr. Dadie and helped me to push my cart across the street into the parking lot. A group of men had surrounded us and one welcomed me, "Akwabba". I shook my hand and told me how to say "thank you" when I asked. I was glad to feel welcome and learn a bit of the language.

Several men were helping Mr. Dadie load the bags into a car. The one I was talking to asked for some money to give them as a tip. I explained that I had no local currency and he said no problem I could give dollars, pounds, anything. I fell for it. I got out my wallet and pulled out a $1, concerned that might not be enough, especially for the group, I added a $5. The man took these bills and said, "no there are so many, we will share, please give more". I looked at him suspiciously and he explained "I am coming with you, trust me, give some more please". I got out a $10. He said "$10 for this man he works very hard" and I hesitated. "Just a $20 madam and we will share". Stupidly, thoughtlessly, confused, I got out a $20. I thought he was going to give me back the other bills and that I would Only give them $20. But the second that bill touched his hand he turned away. "Wait, I gave you way too much money give it back! give me the 10!' He shoved a bill into my hand and by the time I realized it was the $1 he was surrounded by a group of men and walking away. Mr. Dadie then appeared and asked what happened because I was just staring after them feeling idiotic and angry. I checked that I had my computer and wallet still on my person and got in the car. I was so livid with myself. 'what was I thinking?! I can't believe I just let myself be scammed like that'. Mr. Dadie apologized and said he didn't realize the guy was asking me for money, that I should have called him. I don't know where he was during the interaction though and it had all happened so fast. I really had thought that other man was part of the NGO I was going to. 'Oh well, it was just money, and about as much as I would spend on dinner at home and probably worth a lot more to him'. I was so frustrated with myself though, going over and over it in my head I couldn't understand why I had been so naive, I practically gave my money away! I tried consoling myself over and over by the reassurance that the man probably had children and this would support them, maybe pay for their school, but it still tainted my drive from the airport.


We drove for about half an hour to Martinas house, Mr. Dadie didn't speak much English but he pointed out a few buildings. I got bitten by some flying bug I hadn't seen before and had a nice raised bump that itched incredibly. It reminded me of other developing countries I had been to, in that the side of the street had make shift buildings and people up at dawn already working. Many people carried goods on their heads and some women wore beautiful fabric in bright yellows, greens and blues. Small cooking fires were being stoked, vegetables and meats laid out on top. Signs advertising mobile phone services broke the landscape. Cars drove in an organized chaos, coming within inches of each other but somehow not colliding. Vans loaded with people careened through the roads. I tried buckling my seatbelt but it did not click into the holder. I held it across my body absent mindedly before I realized what I was doing and that it really wouldn't help me out.
Here are some photos from around the city.

Attempt #1, fail, solution, Attempt #2

So on Monday June 20 I packed up my bags and my mom and brother drove me through infuriating NYC traffic to the Newark airport. I arrived there at 5pm, with plenty of time before my 8pm flight. The check in counter hadn't even opened yet. I waited in line, triple checking my bags for the essentials: passport, ticket #, yellow fever card, phone, camera (chargers)...I got to the counter and handed the woman my papers. She paused for a minute then calmly explained, "you've missed your flight, it was at 8 o'clock this morning, so I'll see what I can do, please step over here". I was stunned. Frozen to the spot. It is one of the more disorienting experiences to think that after having prepared yourself mentally for a long flight and journey to a foriegn land, to suddenly find out that you won't be going anywhere anytime soon. This was the case for me, because the next Virgin Airline employee explained that there was not another flight to London/Accra until Thursday. THURSDAY?! I've heard of delays, cancellations, re-schedules, but it was always counted in hours, not days. Still not fully believing that this was my only option, I nodded at him to book me on the Thursday morning flight. I pleaded with the employee a few times but after being told my only other option was to pay $3,000 to book a brand new ticket on another airline, I accepted it.
        I shamefully emailed the non profit about my mistake and that I would not be arriving for several days. I felt so bad and embarrassed, here I am, known as a traveler, and I can't even make the flight. The confusion had been due to the fact that the USA uses 12 hour time and the rest of the world 24. For some reason I had seen 8 and assumed PM although my arrival time was listed as 22:00. I didn't want this to reflect poorly on me and make them worry that they had invited an incompetent intern.
    I called my family to come pick me up. They were already through the worst of the traffic and wouldn't turn around to sit for hours again. Understandable. I'd have to take the bus with my bags into NYC and then switch to a train back to CT. Before considering a way home I first needed to: charge my cell phone, use the bathroom, and eat, as my headache had increased after all of this stress. I parked myself on the floor with my bags and plugged in my phone. My boyfriend assured me that this was just a mistake, and reminded me that circumstances like this are part of the whole experience of traveling. He cheered me up by sharing a story about how he missed a flight while actually sitting at the gate, I was able to laugh at the whole situation. I then had an epiphany and remembered that one of my best friends was flying back home to New Jersey that very day, most likely to the Newark airport! I called her and managed to catch her while on layover from California. She was getting in at midnight and I could stay with her. I agreed and settled in the food court with my computer for awhile, watching TV shows and eating. Five hours in the airport isn't much all things considered so I entertained myself. The most annoying part of traveling alone is having to bring all of your suitcases into the bathroom stall with you. Fortunately my bag had wheels and I could fit it with me in the handicap stall. My friend arrived late that night and I spent the next few days at her house just relaxing with her and her family. It was a much needed rest after all because I had just finished driving across the country the week before and had been too exhausted to arrive in a new country anyway.
Thursday morning I headed to the airport and arrived at 5AM, again 3 hours before my flight. I was checked in and through security by 5:30 and watched the news until boarding time. There was a huge group of Indian youth also on my plane so I tried to listen for words I recognized in Hindi, and laughed to myself about their souvenir sweatshirts that said "New Jersey".
The flight was unremarkable I slept for the first half and watched the most recent Harry Potter movie. I had a quick and easy transition in London to the second flight. I was one of 5 people going who were obviously not Ghanian, which I found slightly intimidating but also exciting. The second flight was equally uneventful, but I got my first exposure to the languages and culture of the country.